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Northern Vietnam · travel guide

Northern Vietnam, place by place.

Nine destinations within a day's travel of Hanoi, from limestone bays to rice terraces on the Chinese border. For each one you get the same four things: the facts, the local specialties, the reasons to go and what to do there. Distances, prices and rules were checked in October 2026.

9destinations, all reached from Hanoi
3UNESCO World Heritage sites
2UNESCO Global Geoparks
Checked10 October 2026
Map of northern Vietnam showing the nine destinations in this guideCHINALAOSGulf of Tonkin100 kmHanoi1Ninh Binh2Ha Long – Cat Ba3Ha Giang4Sa Pa5Cao Bang6Mu Cang Chai7Mai Chau8Moc Chau9Yen Tu – Con Son – Kiep Bac
The numbers match the sections below: tap one to jump there. Dotted lines show where each place lies from Hanoi.
Overview

Nine places at a glance

Everything here starts from Hanoi. The delta and the coast are two to three hours away on expressways; the mountains take most of a day on winding roads. Pick by how much time you have, then by season.

Province names changed in 2025

On 1 July 2025 Vietnam merged its 63 provinces and cities into 34. Several places in this guide changed province: Ha Giang is now part of Tuyen Quang, Mu Cang Chai (formerly Yen Bai) is in Lao Cai, Mai Chau (formerly Hoa Binh) is in Phu Tho, and Con Son and Kiep Bac (formerly Hai Duong) are in Hai Phong. Bus tickets, road signs and Google Maps still mostly use the old names, so we give both.

Number on the mapDestinationFrom HanoiStayBest months
1 Ninh BinhBoat trips through caves and rice fields 100 km1.5–2 h 1–2 nights May–Jun, Oct–Nov
2 Ha Long – Cat BaCruising and kayaking among limestone islands 150 km2–3.5 h 1–3 nights Mar–May, Oct–Nov
3 Ha GiangThe Ha Giang Loop: Vietnam's great mountain road trip 290 km6–7 h 3–4 days Mar–Apr, Sep–Nov
4 Sa PaTrekking through terraces, and Fansipan 315 km5.5–6 h 2–3 nights Mar–May, Sep–Nov
5 Cao BangBan Gioc waterfall and empty back roads 280 km6–8 h 2–3 nights Sep–Nov
6 Mu Cang ChaiThe most spectacular rice terraces in Vietnam 285 km7–8 h 2 nights Mid-Sep–early Oct, Jun
7 Mai ChauCycling a rice valley and sleeping in a stilt house 140 km3–3.5 h 1–2 nights Oct–Apr
8 Moc ChauTea hills, plum blossom and cool air 190 km4–5 h 2 nights Jan–Feb, Oct–Dec
9 Yen Tu – Con Son – Kiep BacSacred mountain, pagodas and Tran-dynasty history 75–120 km1.5–2.5 h 1–2 days Oct–Dec

When to go: month by month

The north has four real seasons, unlike the rest of Vietnam. The same month can mean snow on Fansipan and T-shirts in Mai Chau, so check the row for the place you have in mind.

Month by month
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Best timeGoodHot and wetCold or mistyStorm season at sea
Feb – Apr

Spring

About 15–25 °C in the lowlands. Light drizzle and mist, blossom in the mountains and the busiest weeks at temples and pagodas.

May – Aug

Summer

About 28–35 °C and humid, with heavy afternoon rain. Storms can stop boats on the coast from June, and landslides can close mountain roads. The greenest landscapes of the year.

Sep – Nov

Autumn

About 20–30 °C, turning dry and clear from October. Rice harvest in the mountains. The best season almost everywhere.

Dec – Jan

Winter

About 10–20 °C in the lowlands and close to freezing above 1,500 m. Dry, grey and often hazy. Simple guesthouses have no heating.

Continuing south?

We have the same kind of guide for the cities where we run our rides.

UNESCO World Heritage, 2014

Ninh Binh

Ninh Bình·say “ning bing”

Limestone peaks, rice paddies and a thousand-year-old capital, under two hours from Hanoi.

  • From Hanoi100 km1.5–2 hours by road
  • Best timeMay–Jun, Oct–Novgolden rice, then dry autumn
  • Stay1–2 nightsor one long day trip
  • Good forFirst-timersfamilies, cyclists, photographers

The facts about Ninh Binh

Where
About 100 km south of Hanoi, where the Red River Delta meets the limestone hills. Since the July 2025 mergers, Ninh Binh province also takes in the former Ha Nam and Nam Dinh provinces.
Known as
"Ha Long Bay on land": the same limestone towers as the bay, but rising out of rivers and rice fields instead of the sea.
UNESCO
The Trang An Landscape Complex was listed in 2014. It is Vietnam's only mixed World Heritage site, recognised for both its nature and its history.
History
Hoa Lu was the capital of Dai Co Viet, the 10th-century Vietnamese kingdom, from 968 to 1010, before the court moved to what is now Hanoi.
Getting there
Limousine vans and buses take 1.5–2 hours on the expressway. The train from Hanoi takes a little over 2 hours. Most visitors stay in Tam Coc or near Trang An, 7–10 km from Ninh Binh station.
Best time
Late May to mid-June, when the rice along the Tam Coc river turns gold, and October–November for dry, mild days. January to March is cool and misty, and busy with Vietnamese pilgrims.
How long
One long day works from Hanoi. Two days lets you fit in a boat trip, a viewpoint and a bike ride without rushing.

Local specialties of Ninh Binh

  • Dê núiMountain goat

    Goat raised on the limestone hills, with lean, firm meat. Try dê tái chanh: lightly cooked goat tossed with lime, lemongrass and sesame, wrapped in fig leaves.

  • Cơm cháyCrispy scorched rice

    The crust from the bottom of the rice pot, dried and deep-fried until it puffs, then dipped in a goat and mushroom gravy. Sold in bags as the standard Ninh Binh souvenir.

  • Miến lươnEel glass-noodle soup

    Crisp-fried field eel over glass noodles in a bone broth, with banana flower and herbs.

  • Ốc núiMountain snails

    Snails from the limestone forest, eaten in the rainy months (roughly April to August), steamed with lemongrass or stir-fried with tamarind.

  • Nem chua Yên MạcFermented pork

    Sour, garlicky fermented pork from Yen Mac village, eaten with fig leaves and chilli sauce.

  • Gỏi cá nhệchRaw eel salad

    From coastal Kim Son: raw rice-field eel tossed in roasted rice powder and wrapped in a dozen kinds of leaves. One for adventurous eaters.

To take home: bags of cơm cháy and Kim Son rice liquor (rượu Kim Sơn).

Reasons to go to Ninh Binh

  1. The easiest big landscape from HanoiUnder two hours by road, no flight and no overnight bus. It works as a day trip or a slow two days.
  2. You see it from water levelRowing boats slide through flooded caves and between the cliffs. No engines, just the sound of the oars.
  3. History you can walk throughTemples on the site of the 10th-century capital, cave pagodas and one of the largest Buddhist complexes in Vietnam.
  4. Flat, quiet roadsVillage lanes between the karsts are made for cycling, and gentle enough for children.

Things to do in Ninh Binh

  1. Trang An boat tourTràng An

    A 2.5–3 hour trip in a rowing boat through caves, temples and hidden valleys. You choose one of three routes at the wharf. 250,000 VND per adult, boat included.

  2. Tam Coc boat rideTam Cốc

    A shorter row along the Ngo Dong river through three low caves, with rice fields on both sides. The rowers often paddle with their feet. Best when the rice is green or gold, April to June. 250,000 VND per adult.

  3. Mua Cave viewpointHang Múa

    About 500 stone steps up a ridge for the classic view over the Tam Coc valley. Go at opening time or in the late afternoon: midday is hot and crowded. 100,000 VND.

  4. Hoa Lu ancient capitalCố đô Hoa Lư

    Two 17th-century temples to the kings Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Dai Hanh stand on the site of the old citadel. 20,000 VND. Allow an hour.

  5. Bai Dinh PagodaChùa Bái Đính

    A vast modern Buddhist complex beside a much older cave pagoda, with corridors lined by 500 stone statues of arhats. Entry is free; you pay for the electric shuttle from the car park.

  6. Bich Dong PagodaChùa Bích Động

    Three small pagodas built up a cliff and linked by a cave, a short ride past Tam Coc. Usually quiet early in the day.

  7. Cycle the back roads

    Most homestays in Tam Coc lend or rent bicycles. Ride the lanes between the karsts to Thai Vi temple and the villages behind it.

  8. Cuc Phuong National ParkVườn quốc gia Cúc Phương

    Vietnam's first national park (1962), about 45 km west of Tam Coc: a primate rescue centre, thousand-year-old trees and clouds of butterflies in April and May. 60,000 VND.

  9. Van Long wetlandĐầm Vân Long

    A bamboo sampan takes you across a reed-filled reserve to look for the rare Delacour's langur on the cliffs. Best in the late afternoon. 100,000 VND.

UNESCO World Heritage, 1994 · extended 2023

Ha Long – Cat Ba

Hạ Long – Cát Bà·say “hah lawng, kaht bah”

Limestone islands rising out of a jade-green sea: by cruise from Ha Long, or on your own from Cat Ba island.

  • From Hanoi150 km2–2.5 h to Ha Long, 3–3.5 h to Cat Ba
  • Best timeMar–May, Oct–Novwarm, calmer seas, clearer views
  • Stay1–3 nightsone on a boat, or two on Cat Ba
  • Good forCruiseskayaking, island hiking, seafood

The facts about Ha Long – Cat Ba

Where
On the Gulf of Tonkin, about 150 km east of Hanoi. Ha Long Bay belongs to Quang Ninh province. Cat Ba, the largest island, belongs to Hai Phong city. Lan Ha Bay is the quieter water around Cat Ba, and Bai Tu Long Bay lies north-east of Ha Long.
UNESCO
Ha Long Bay was listed in 1994 and again in 2000 for its geology. In 2023 the site was extended and renamed Ha Long Bay – Cat Ba Archipelago: 1,133 islands and islets lie inside the protected area. The wider bay is usually counted at 1,969 islands.
The name
Hạ Long means "descending dragon". In the legend, dragons sent to defend the country spat out jewels that became the islands.
Wildlife
Cat Ba is also a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve (2004) and the only home of the Cat Ba langur, one of the world's rarest primates. Fewer than 100 are left.
Getting there
Expressway buses and limousine vans reach Ha Long in 2–2.5 hours. Bus-and-ferry tickets from Hanoi to Cat Ba take 3–3.5 hours: public ferries now leave from Dong Bai pier, not the old Got pier, and a cable car also crosses from Cat Hai to Phu Long. Coming from Saigon or Da Nang, Hai Phong's Cat Bi airport is closer to the bay than Hanoi.
Best time
March to May and October to November. June to September is hot and good for swimming, but it is storm season. December to February is cool, grey and often hazy.
How long
A day cruise from Hanoi is possible but rushed, with about five hours on the road. One night on a boat or two nights on Cat Ba is the comfortable minimum.

Local specialties of Ha Long – Cat Ba

  • Chả mực Hạ LongHand-pounded squid cakes

    Fresh squid pounded by hand in a stone mortar, shaped into patties and fried golden. Eaten with sticky rice (xôi) or steamed rice rolls (bánh cuốn) for breakfast.

  • Sá sùngPeanut worm

    A sand-dwelling sea worm from the islands of Quang Ninh, dried and used to sweeten broth, or stir-fried fresh. Expensive, and found almost nowhere else.

  • NgánMangrove clam

    A clam from Quang Ninh's mangroves: grilled, steamed, cooked in rice porridge, or steeped in rice liquor (rượu ngán).

  • Bún bề bềMantis-shrimp noodle soup

    Rice noodles in a light tomato broth topped with shelled mantis shrimp. A common breakfast around Ha Long's markets.

  • Tu hàiOtter clam

    A large clam with a long "trunk", farmed around Cat Ba and Van Don. Usually grilled with spring-onion oil or steamed with lemongrass.

  • Bánh đa cua, nem cua bểHai Phong crab noodles and crab rolls

    Cat Ba belongs to Hai Phong, so the city's two signatures are on every menu: brown flat noodles in crab broth, and square deep-fried crab spring rolls.

To take home: dried squid, Cat Hai fish sauce (nước mắm Cát Hải) and Cat Ba forest honey. Seafood restaurants price by weight: ask the price per kilo and watch it weighed before it is cooked.

Reasons to go to Ha Long – Cat Ba

  1. A landscape with no equalHundreds of limestone towers standing in the sea. UNESCO calls it the world's most extensive example of tower karst flooded by the sea.
  2. A night on the waterOn an overnight cruise you see the bay at sunset and at dawn, after the day boats have gone home.
  3. Two ways to do itHa Long for cruises and comfort. Cat Ba for independent travellers: cheaper rooms, forest hikes, climbing and day boats into quieter Lan Ha Bay.
  4. It combines wellTwo to three hours from Hanoi, about four from Ninh Binh by direct bus, and one hour from Yen Tu.

Things to do in Ha Long – Cat Ba

  1. Overnight cruise

    One or two nights on Ha Long, Bai Tu Long or Lan Ha Bay. Boats leave around midday from Tuan Chau marina or Ha Long's cruise port; Lan Ha boats mostly use Got harbour near Hai Phong. Prices vary enormously, so check exactly what is included.

  2. Kayak the lagoons

    Paddle, or sit in a rowed bamboo boat, through low rock arches into enclosed lagoons such as Luon Cave in Ha Long or the Dark and Bright Cave (Hang Sáng Tối) in Lan Ha Bay.

  3. Sung Sot CaveHang Sửng Sốt

    "Surprise Cave", the biggest show cave on the standard cruise route: two vast chambers reached by a steep flight of steps.

  4. Ti Top IslandĐảo Ti Tốp

    A small beach and more than 400 steps to a viewpoint over the bay. Named after the Soviet cosmonaut Gherman Titov, who visited with Ho Chi Minh in 1962.

  5. Cat Ba National ParkVườn quốc gia Cát Bà

    Hike to Ngu Lam peak (1.5–2 hours return, steep and slippery after rain) for a view across forested karst, or take the longer trail through the park to Viet Hai village.

  6. Viet Hai villageLàng Việt Hải

    A farming village in a valley inside the national park, reached by boat and then bicycle or electric cart. Have lunch in a local house, then cycle the single road.

  7. Day boat into Lan Ha BayVịnh Lan Hạ

    From Ben Beo pier in Cat Ba town: floating fish farms, swimming stops and kayaking for a fraction of the price of a cruise.

  8. Hospital CaveHang Quân Y

    A three-storey wartime hospital built inside a cave in the 1960s, on the road from Cat Ba town to the national park.

  9. Rock climbing

    Cat Ba is Vietnam's main climbing area, with bolted routes in Butterfly Valley and climbing above deep water in the bay. Go with a licensed local operator.

UNESCO Global Geopark, 2010

Ha Giang

Hà Giang·say “hah zahng”

Vietnam's far north: a loop of mountain passes across a limestone plateau on the Chinese border.

  • From Hanoi290 km6–7 hours to Ha Giang city
  • Best timeMar–Apr, Sep–Novspring flowers, harvest, buckwheat
  • Stay3–4 dayson the loop, plus travel days
  • Good forRoad tripsbig views, mountain markets

The facts about Ha Giang

Where
The northernmost corner of Vietnam, about 290 km from Hanoi. Ha Giang was a province of its own until July 2025. It is now part of Tuyen Quang province, but everyone still calls the area, and the trip, Ha Giang.
The loop
The "Ha Giang Loop" is a circuit of roughly 350 km from Ha Giang city through Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac and back. It is normally done in three or four days.
UNESCO
The Dong Van Karst Plateau became Vietnam's first UNESCO Global Geopark in 2010: grey limestone ridges above 1,000 m, with corn planted in pockets of soil between the rocks.
People
More than fifteen ethnic groups live here. The Hmong are the largest on the plateau, alongside Dao, Tay, Lo Lo and others. Weekly markets are still where people trade, eat and meet.
Getting there
Sleeper buses and limousine vans from Hanoi take 6–7 hours to Ha Giang city, and many run overnight. There is no train and no airport.
Best time
March and April for spring flowers and mild weather. September to November for the rice harvest in Hoang Su Phi, then pink buckwheat fields from mid-October. June to August brings heavy rain and landslides. December to February is cold, sometimes near freezing.
How long
Allow five or six days from Hanoi and back: a travel day each way and three or four days on the road.

Local specialties of Ha Giang

  • Thắng cốHmong horse stew

    A market-day stew of horse meat, offal and bones simmered for hours with cardamom and mountain herbs. Strong-tasting and shared from one big pan.

  • Bánh cuốn trứngRice rolls with egg

    A thin rice sheet steamed with an egg cracked inside, rolled and dunked in a bowl of hot bone broth. The breakfast in Dong Van's old quarter.

  • Cháo ấu tẩuBitter aconite-root porridge

    A night-time rice porridge with pork trotter and ấu tẩu, a mountain root that is poisonous raw and safe only after long cooking. Bitter, warming and a Ha Giang city classic.

  • Thắng dềnDumplings in ginger syrup

    Small sticky-rice balls served hot in a sweet ginger and coconut broth with sesame and peanuts. A winter evening snack.

  • Mèn ménSteamed ground corn

    The Hmong staple: dried corn ground and steamed twice until fluffy, eaten with soup in place of rice.

  • Bánh tam giác mạchBuckwheat cakes

    Flat cakes of buckwheat flour grilled over charcoal, sold at markets and roadside stalls in the buckwheat season, from late October.

To take home: mint honey (mật ong bạc hà), Shan Tuyet tea from old mountain tea trees, and corn liquor (rượu ngô).

Reasons to go to Ha Giang

  1. The most dramatic road in VietnamThe Ma Pi Leng Pass runs for about 20 km along a cliff above the Nho Que river canyon. Riders who have covered the whole country still put it first.
  2. Mountain cultures in daily lifeSunday markets, stone-walled Hmong houses and fields worked by hand. This is not a show put on for visitors.
  3. You don't have to ride yourselfLocal drivers known as "easy riders" carry you as a passenger, and cars and jeeps follow the same route.
  4. Homestays, not resortsMost nights on the loop are spent in family-run houses, eating dinner with the hosts.

Things to do in Ha Giang

  1. Do the loop

    Three or four days by motorbike behind an "easy rider" (a local driver; you sit on the back), or by car or jeep on the same roads. Riding yourself is only legal with the right licence: see the note below.

  2. Ma Pi Leng PassĐèo Mã Pí Lèng

    The 20 km stretch between Dong Van and Meo Vac. Stop at the main viewpoint, and walk a little of the footpath above the road for the wider view.

  3. Nho Que River boatSông Nho Quế

    A 45–60 minute boat ride through Tu San canyon, between cliffs several hundred metres high. About 120,000–150,000 VND. The road down to the pier is steep, so most people take a local motorbike taxi.

  4. Lung Cu Flag TowerCột cờ Lũng Cú

    The flag at the northern tip of the country: 54 square metres, one for each of Vietnam's ethnic groups. Climb the steps for a view into China.

  5. Lo Lo Chai villageLàng Lô Lô Chải

    Earth-walled houses at the foot of the flag tower, home to the Lo Lo people and named one of UN Tourism's Best Tourism Villages in 2025. Stay the night if you can.

  6. Vuong family palaceDinh thự họ Vương

    The fortified mansion of the Hmong "king" who controlled the plateau's opium trade in the early 20th century: stone, pine and curved tiled roofs in the Sa Phin valley.

  7. Dong Van old quarter and Sunday marketPhố cổ Đồng Văn

    A short street of century-old stone and clay houses. On Sunday mornings the market fills with families from the surrounding hills. Meo Vac has its own Sunday market.

  8. Quan Ba and Yen MinhQuản Bạ, Yên Minh

    The first day's stops: the Heaven Gate pass, the twin "Fairy Mountain" hills at Quan Ba and the pine forests around Yen Minh.

  9. Hoang Su Phi rice terracesHoàng Su Phì

    About 110 km west of Ha Giang city and off the main loop: some of the steepest rice terraces in Vietnam, golden from mid-September to early October. Best on foot, staying in village homestays.

  10. Du GiaDu Già

    A quiet valley village used as the last night of the four-day loop, with a waterfall pool for swimming.

Fansipan, 3,147 m

Sa Pa

Sa Pa·say “sah pah”

A hill town at 1,500 m facing Vietnam's highest mountain, with rice terraces and Hmong and Dao villages in the valley below.

  • From Hanoi315 km5.5–6 hours, or overnight train
  • Best timeMar–May, Sep–Novclear and mild; harvest in September
  • Stay2–3 nightsone of them in a village
  • Good forTrekkingvillage homestays, mountain views

The facts about Sa Pa

Where
In Lao Cai province in the far north-west, about 315 km from Hanoi and 35 km from Lao Cai city on the Chinese border. The town sits at roughly 1,500–1,600 m. Since July 2025, Lao Cai province also includes the former Yen Bai province.
The mountain
Fansipan, in the Hoang Lien Son range, is the highest peak in Vietnam and in all of Indochina: 3,147.3 m by the 2019 survey. Many signs and guidebooks still give the older figure of 3,143 m.
History
The French built Sa Pa as a hill station in the early 1900s to escape the summer heat of the delta. The stone church on the main square is the best-known building left from that period.
People
Most villagers are Hmong and Red Dao, with Tay, Giay and Xa Pho communities in the lower valleys. Many trekking guides are Hmong women from the nearby villages.
Climate
Cool all year. Summer days reach the low 20s °C. In December and January it drops close to freezing at night, with frost and, in some years, snow on the high ground.
Getting there
Expressway buses and limousine vans from Hanoi take 5.5–6 hours. The alternative is the overnight sleeper train to Lao Cai (about 8 hours), followed by a one-hour drive up the mountain.
Best time
March to May and September to November. The terraces are flooded and planted in May and June, green in July and August, and gold from late August to mid-September. June to August has the heaviest rain.
How long
Two full days is the minimum for a trek and Fansipan. Three lets you add a market or a second valley.

Local specialties of Sa Pa

  • Cá hồi, cá tầmRainbow trout and sturgeon

    Cold-water fish farmed in the mountain streams above town. Menus call the trout "salmon". Order it as a hotpot (lẩu cá hồi), grilled, or raw as sashimi.

  • Thắng cốHorse-meat stew

    The Hmong market stew of horse meat and offal with mountain spices. Most traditional at Bac Ha's Sunday market.

  • Lợn cắp nách"Armpit" pig

    Small free-range hill pigs, small enough to carry under one arm, which is where the name comes from. Roasted whole or grilled: lean meat and crisp skin.

  • Đồ nướngStreet barbecue

    On cold evenings the town centre fills with charcoal grills: pork wrapped in greens, sticky rice in bamboo, eggs, corn, sweet potato and chestnuts.

  • Cơm lamBamboo-tube sticky rice

    Sticky rice roasted inside a length of bamboo, peeled like a banana and dipped in crushed sesame salt.

  • Rau cải mèo, su suMountain greens

    Hmong mustard greens, slightly bitter, and chayote shoots, stir-fried with garlic. The vegetables you will want after all the grilled meat.

To take home: wild-apple liquor (rượu táo mèo), dried mushrooms and bundles of Red Dao bath herbs.

Reasons to go to Sa Pa

  1. The roof of IndochinaA 15-minute cable car lifts you to 3,000 m, a short climb from the summit of Fansipan.
  2. Walking through rice terracesThe Muong Hoa valley is one long staircase of fields, with paths linking the villages along the river.
  3. Meeting the people who farm themSleep in a village house, walk with a Hmong guide and you will learn more than from any viewpoint.
  4. Cool airWhen Hanoi is 35 °C in July, Sa Pa is in the low 20s.

Things to do in Sa Pa

  1. Trek the Muong Hoa valleyThung lũng Mường Hoa

    The classic walk runs from Sa Pa down to Lao Chai and Ta Van villages: about 10–12 km and 4–5 hours through terraced fields, with a local guide. Stay the night in a Ta Van homestay to see the valley after the day-trippers leave. Trails are muddy after rain, so wear proper shoes.

  2. Fansipan by cable carFansipan

    The cable car climbs 1,410 m in about 15 minutes. From the top station it is roughly 600 steps, or a short funicular, to the summit. 850,000 VND return for adults in 2026. Go on a clear morning and ask your hotel what the summit looks like first: cloud often hides everything.

  3. Climb Fansipan on foot

    A hard one- or two-day trek from Tram Ton pass with a licensed guide and porter. For fit, experienced hikers only.

  4. Cat Cat villageBản Cát Cát

    A Hmong village 2 km below town, with a waterfall and old water wheels. Easy to reach, but heavily commercialised. 150,000 VND.

  5. Red Dao herbal bathTắm lá thuốc người Dao đỏ

    In Ta Phin village, soak in a wooden tub of hot water steeped with forest herbs: the Red Dao remedy for tired legs.

  6. O Quy Ho Pass and the waterfallsĐèo Ô Quy Hồ

    One of Vietnam's highest road passes, at about 2,000 m and 15 km from town, with Silver Waterfall and Love Waterfall on the way up. Best towards sunset on a clear day.

  7. Bac Ha Sunday marketChợ Bắc Hà

    The biggest hill-tribe market in the region, about 100 km and 2.5–3 hours from Sa Pa. Flower Hmong families in bright embroidered dress trade buffalo, textiles and corn liquor. Sunday mornings only.

  8. Ham Rong MountainNúi Hàm Rồng

    Gardens and rock viewpoints a short climb above the church, looking down on the town.

UNESCO Global Geopark, 2018

Cao Bang

Cao Bằng·say “kow bahng”

Vietnam's biggest waterfall, on a quiet stretch of the border, in a province most visitors never reach.

  • From Hanoi280 km6–8 hours to Cao Bang city
  • Best timeSep–Novfull falls, blue water, ripe rice
  • Stay2–3 nightsthree days from Hanoi at least
  • Good forWaterfallscaves, quiet roads, craft villages

The facts about Cao Bang

Where
In the north-east on the Chinese border, about 280 km from Hanoi. Cao Bang kept its own province in the 2025 mergers. Ban Gioc waterfall is another 90 km, about two hours, beyond Cao Bang city.
The waterfall
Ban Gioc is the largest waterfall in Vietnam: about 300 m wide across its tiers in the rainy season, falling more than 30 m. The Quay Son river is the border here. The far bank, where the fall is called Detian, is China.
UNESCO
Non Nuoc Cao Bang became a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2018, the second in Vietnam: more than 3,000 square km of limestone peaks, caves and lakes, home to nine ethnic groups, mainly Tay and Nung.
History
Pac Bo, on the border north of the city, is where Ho Chi Minh came back to Vietnam in early 1941 after thirty years abroad, and led the independence movement from a cave.
Getting there
Sleeper buses and limousine vans from Hanoi take 6–8 hours, and many run overnight. There is no train and no airport. An expressway from Lang Son is under construction, with opening planned for 2027.
Best time
September to November: the falls are still full after the rains, the water turns blue-green again and rice ripens in the valleys. June to August has the most water, but it runs brown and landslides can cut the roads. From December to April the flow is thin.
How long
Three days from Hanoi at the least: one to get there, one for Ban Gioc and the cave, one to come back. Add a day or two for Pac Bo and the lakes.

Local specialties of Cao Bang

  • Vịt quay bảy vịSeven-spice roast duck

    Duck marinated in seven seasonings (every family has its own recipe), roasted over charcoal and glazed with honey until the skin is dark and crisp.

  • Bánh cuốn canhRice rolls in bone broth

    Cao Bang's breakfast: freshly steamed rice sheets rolled around minced pork and served in a bowl of hot bone broth with a soft egg, instead of with fish sauce.

  • Phở chuaSour phở

    Not a soup. Rice noodles served at room temperature with roast duck, pork belly, crisp-fried potato and peanuts in a sweet-sour dressing.

  • Hạt dẻ Trùng KhánhTrung Khanh chestnuts

    Large, sweet chestnuts from the district around Ban Gioc, in season from September to November. Sold boiled or roasted by the roadside.

  • Lạp sườnSmoked pork sausage

    Pork sausage seasoned with ginger and rice liquor and hung above the kitchen fire. Sliced and fried, or steamed over rice.

  • Xôi trámSticky rice with black canarium

    Sticky rice mixed with the rich, slightly bitter flesh of the black trám fruit, which turns it purple. An autumn dish.

To take home: chestnuts in season, arrowroot glass noodles (miến dong) and hand-forged knives from Phuc Sen village.

Reasons to go to Cao Bang

  1. A waterfall you can get close toA bamboo raft takes you right into the spray at the foot of the falls.
  2. Few crowdsFar fewer visitors than Sa Pa or Ha Giang, and hardly any tour buses.
  3. Roads made for a slow rideLimestone valleys, clear rivers and rice fields on quiet roads. The Cao Bang Loop is the calm alternative to Ha Giang.
  4. Villages that still make thingsStone houses, hand-rolled incense and blacksmiths working at open forges.

Things to do in Cao Bang

  1. Ban Gioc WaterfallThác Bản Giốc

    Walk the riverside path to the foot of the falls, then take a bamboo raft into the spray. Entry is 45,000 VND and the raft 50,000 VND. Stay on the Vietnamese side: the middle of the river is the border.

  2. Nguom Ngao CaveĐộng Ngườm Ngao

    A limestone cave 3 km from the falls. About one kilometre is lit and open to walk through, past formations shaped like lotus flowers and coral. Allow 45 minutes.

  3. Phat Tich Truc Lam Ban Gioc PagodaChùa Phật Tích Trúc Lâm Bản Giốc

    A pagoda on the hill facing the falls. Climb the steps for the best view over the water and the border valley.

  4. Angel Eye MountainNúi Mắt Thần

    A peak with a round hole straight through it, standing over a valley of lakes and grass near Thang Hen. The lakes fill in the rainy season and mostly drain by late winter.

  5. Pac BoKhu di tích Pác Bó

    The turquoise Lenin Stream and Coc Bo cave, where Ho Chi Minh lived in 1941, about 50 km north of the city. A beautiful walk even without the history.

  6. Phong Nam valleyThung lũng Phong Nậm

    A flat valley of rice fields and bamboo water wheels on the Quay Son river, upstream of the falls. Best by bicycle or scooter in September, when the rice is ripe.

  7. Craft villagesKhuổi Ky, Phia Thắp, Phúc Sen

    Khuoi Ky has stone stilt houses of the Tay people, close to the cave. Phia Thap dries hand-rolled incense in red fans along the road. In Phuc Sen, Nung blacksmiths forge knives by hand.

  8. The Cao Bang Loop

    Three or four days by motorbike or car linking the city, Pac Bo, Ban Gioc and Thang Hen, often continuing to Ba Be Lake on the way back to Hanoi. The same licence rules apply as in Ha Giang.

Special National Site, 2019

Mu Cang Chai

Mù Cang Chải·say “moo kahng chai”

Whole mountainsides carved into rice terraces by Hmong farmers: silver with water in June, gold for three weeks in autumn.

  • From Hanoi285 km7–8 hours by road
  • Best timeMid-Sep–early Octalso late May–June, water season
  • Stay2 nightsfor one good morning of light
  • Good forPhotographerstrekking, paragliding

The facts about Mu Cang Chai

Where
In the Hoang Lien Son mountains, about 285 km north-west of Hanoi. Formerly a district of Yen Bai province, it has been part of Lao Cai province since July 2025.
The terraces
Hmong farmers have cut these terraces by hand over several centuries, on slopes at about 1,000–1,600 m. The terraces of La Pan Tan, Che Cu Nha and De Xu Phinh were declared a Special National Site in 2019.
One crop a year
At this altitude there is only one rice crop, so the calendar is fixed. Fields are flooded and planted in late May and June, green through July and August, and ripe from about mid-September to early October.
The road in
The Khau Pha Pass, more than 30 km long and over 1,200 m at the top, links the Tu Le valley to Mu Cang Chai. It is one of the four great passes of the north-west.
Getting there
Direct buses from Hanoi take 7–8 hours; a private car is nearer 6.5. Many travellers come as part of a north-west loop: Sa Pa is about 140 km and four hours further on.
Best time
Mid-September to early October for the golden harvest, and late May to June for the water season. The harvest window is short and shifts by a week or so each year.
How long
Two nights. You want at least one clear morning and one late afternoon for the light.

Local specialties of Mu Cang Chai

  • Xôi nếp Tú LệTu Le sticky rice

    Sticky rice from the Tu Le valley, known across Vietnam for its fragrance. Steamed and eaten plain with sesame salt or grilled meat.

  • Cốm Tú LệYoung green rice

    Rice picked just before it ripens, roasted and pounded flat into soft green flakes. Made only in September and October.

  • Thịt lợn hun khóiSmoked pork

    Pork from hill pigs, salted and hung over the hearth for weeks, then sliced and stir-fried with garlic leaves or pickled bamboo.

  • Cá suối nướngGrilled stream fish

    Small river fish stuffed with herbs, clamped between bamboo splints and grilled over charcoal.

  • Châu chấu rangFried grasshoppers

    Caught in the rice fields at harvest time and fried crisp with lime leaves. A seasonal snack with beer.

  • Táo mèoHmong wild apple

    A small, sour mountain apple picked from August to October. Sold fresh, dried, as syrup and as a fruit liquor (rượu táo mèo).

To take home: Tu Le sticky rice, wild honey and Shan Tuyet tea from the old tea trees of Suoi Giang, on the road from Hanoi.

Reasons to go to Mu Cang Chai

  1. The finest terraces in the countryEntire hillsides are stepped from the river to the ridge. Nothing else in Vietnam is on this scale.
  2. Still a farming districtA small town, village homestays and fields worked by buffalo and by hand.
  3. You can fly over itTandem paragliders take off from the Khau Pha Pass and land among the rice fields.
  4. The road is half the tripTea hills, hot springs and one of the great mountain passes on the way in.

Things to do in Mu Cang Chai

  1. Raspberry HillĐồi Mâm Xôi

    The round, layered hill in La Pan Tan that appears in every photograph. The track up is steep and narrow: park at the bottom and take a local motorbike taxi, or walk for 30–40 minutes.

  2. Horseshoe HillĐồi Móng Ngựa

    A curved sweep of terraces in Sang Nhu, also reached by local motorbike taxi. The best light is in the early morning.

  3. Khau Pha Pass viewpointĐèo Khau Phạ

    Stop at the top of the pass for the view down into the Cao Pha and Tu Le valleys. Cloud often fills the valley at dawn.

  4. Tandem paragliding

    Licensed pilots fly tandem from Khau Pha over the terraces, mostly around the two festivals: the water season in May and the golden season in September. Flights depend on the wind.

  5. Tu Le valleyTú Lệ

    A Thai village in a bowl of rice fields. Watch green rice being pounded in autumn, and soak in the hot-spring baths.

  6. Lim Mong villageBản Lìm Mông

    A Hmong village at the foot of Khau Pha, surrounded by terraces and reached by a steep side road.

  7. Walk the terraces

    Follow the footpaths between the fields in Che Cu Nha or De Xu Phinh with a village guide, and sleep in a Hmong or Thai homestay.

  8. Pung Luong bamboo forestRừng trúc Púng Luông

    A grove of tall, straight bamboo on a hilltop above the main road. Cool and quiet even at midday.

Closest highland valley to Hanoi

Mai Chau

Mai Châu·say “my choh”

A flat green valley of rice fields and Thai stilt houses, three hours from Hanoi: the gentlest introduction to the highlands.

  • From Hanoi140 km3–3.5 hours by road
  • Best timeOct–Aprgold fields late May–June and September
  • Stay1–2 nightsin a stilt-house homestay
  • Good forCyclinghomestays, families, slow days

The facts about Mai Chau

Where
About 140 km south-west of Hanoi, over the Thung Khe Pass. Part of Hoa Binh province until July 2025, and now in Phu Tho province.
The valley
A wide, flat valley floor only about 150 m above sea level, ringed by mountains. Being low, it is warmer than Sa Pa or Moc Chau, and comfortable in winter.
People
Most villagers are White Thai. They live in wooden houses on stilts, weave brocade, and were among the first in Vietnam to open their homes to guests. Lac village is said to be about 700 years old.
Two rice crops
Unlike the high terraces, the valley grows two crops a year. Fields are green in March–April and July–August, and gold in late May to early June and again in September.
Getting there
Limousine vans and buses from Hanoi take 3–3.5 hours. It is also an easy stop on the way to Moc Chau, 65 km further on, or across to Ninh Binh, about 140 km away.
Best time
October to April for cool, dry weather. Late May, June and September for golden fields. June to August is hot and humid in the valley.
How long
One night is enough to cycle the valley. Stay two if you want to walk into the hills or continue to Pu Luong.

Local specialties of Mai Chau

  • Cơm lamBamboo-tube sticky rice

    Upland sticky rice packed into a bamboo tube with a little water and roasted over the fire. Peel back the bamboo and dip the rice in sesame salt.

  • Xôi nếp nươngUpland sticky rice

    Sticky rice grown on the hillsides and steamed in a wooden pot. For festivals it is dyed five colours with leaves.

  • Thịt lợn mán nướngGrilled hill pork

    Free-range pork marinated with lemongrass and mắc khén, a citrusy wild pepper, then grilled on bamboo skewers.

  • Cá suối nướngGrilled stream fish

    Fish from the valley streams, stuffed with herbs and grilled between bamboo splints, the Thai way.

  • Măng đắng, rau rừngBitter bamboo and wild greens

    Steamed forest vegetables and bitter bamboo shoots, dipped in chẩm chéo: a Thai dip of salt, chilli, herbs and wild pepper.

  • Rượu cầnJar rice wine

    Mild, slightly sweet rice wine fermented with herbs in a clay jar and drunk together through long bamboo straws, usually after dinner in a homestay.

To take home: hand-woven Thai brocade scarves and bags, sold by the weavers under their houses.

Reasons to go to Mai Chau

  1. The nearest highland valleyThree hours from Hanoi, on a good road. You can leave after breakfast and be cycling by lunch.
  2. A night in a stilt houseA mattress on a wooden floor under a mosquito net, and dinner cooked by the family downstairs.
  3. Flat enough for anyoneThe valley floor has no hills at all. Children and people who rarely cycle manage easily.
  4. A good link in a longer tripIt sits on the road to Moc Chau and within reach of Pu Luong and Ninh Binh.

Things to do in Mai Chau

  1. Cycle the valley

    Borrow a bicycle from your homestay and ride the lanes between Lac, Pom Coong, Nhot and Van villages. Flat, quiet and impossible to get lost.

  2. Sleep in a Thai stilt houseBản Lác, Bản Pom Coọng

    Homestays in Lac and Pom Coong include dinner cooked by the family. Many arrange an evening of Thai dancing and the bamboo-pole dance; say so if you would prefer a quiet night.

  3. Thung Khe PassĐèo Thung Khe

    The "White Rock Pass" on the road from Hanoi, with stalls selling grilled corn and sugar cane. Just beyond it, the flagpole viewpoint looks straight down on the valley.

  4. Chieu CaveHang Chiều

    About 1,200 steps up the hillside above Mai Chau town to a large cave and a view over the valley. Go in the late afternoon, which is what the name means.

  5. Hang Kia and Pa CoHang Kia, Pà Cò

    Two Hmong communes in the hills, 30–40 km from the valley: plum and peach orchards, mornings above a sea of cloud, and a Sunday market at Pa Co.

  6. Go Lao WaterfallThác Gò Lào

    A waterfall near the Hoa Binh reservoir, about 15 km from town, with a pool you can swim in outside the rainy season.

  7. Brocade weaving

    Watch, or try, weaving on a wooden loom under a stilt house. The cloth and scarves are sold by the women who made them.

  8. Walk on to Pu LuongPù Luông

    The nature reserve next door in Thanh Hoa province, about 1.5–2 hours by road: terraced valleys, bamboo water wheels and village-to-village walks of two or three days.

Tea and dairy plateau, about 1,000 m

Moc Chau

Mộc Châu·say “mok choh”

A cool, rolling plateau of tea hills, dairy farms and plum orchards that changes colour with every season.

  • From Hanoi190 km4–5 hours by road
  • Best timeJan–Feb, Oct–Decplum blossom, then flower fields
  • Stay2 nightsthe sights are spread out
  • Good forFlower seasonsfamilies, easy walks, cool air

The facts about Moc Chau

Where
A plateau in Son La province, about 190 km west of Hanoi on Highway 6, at roughly 1,000 m. Son La kept its own province in the 2025 mergers.
Climate
Cool and temperate. Summer days stay in the mid-20s °C, and winter nights can fall below 10 °C. That is why tea, dairy cattle, plums and strawberries all do well here.
Tea and milk
Moc Chau is one of Vietnam's main tea and dairy areas. The dairy herd dates from 1958, and Moc Chau milk and yoghurt are sold all over the country.
People
Thai and Hmong are the largest groups, with Muong, Dao and Kinh. The Hmong Independence Day gathering on 1–2 September is the plateau's biggest festival.
Seasons of colour
White plum blossom from late January to mid-February, plum picking in May and June, white mustard fields in November and December, and green tea rows all year.
Getting there
Buses and limousine vans from Hanoi take 4–5 hours on Highway 6, passing the Mai Chau turn-off after about three hours. An expressway is being built and is due around 2027–28.
How long
Two nights. The sights are spread over 20–30 km, so hire a car with a driver, a taxi for the day or a scooter.

Local specialties of Moc Chau

  • Bê chaoPan-fried veal

    Young veal from the dairy farms, flash-fried skin-on with lemongrass and ginger until crisp outside and tender inside, and dipped in fermented soybean sauce.

  • Sữa Mộc ChâuFresh dairy

    Fresh milk, drinking yoghurt, set yoghurt and chewy milk sweets (bánh sữa) from the plateau's farms, sold at every rest stop.

  • Chè Mộc ChâuMoc Chau tea

    Shan Tuyet, oolong and green teas grown on the plateau. Most tea farms offer a tasting.

  • Mận hậuMoc Chau plums

    Crisp, sweet-sour plums picked from late April to June and eaten with chilli salt. Dried plums and plum syrup are sold all year.

  • Pa pỉnh tộpThai grilled fish

    River fish opened along the back, stuffed with herbs and wild pepper, folded shut and grilled over charcoal.

  • Nậm pịaFor the brave

    A thick, bitter Thai stew flavoured with the half-digested grass from a cow's or goat's intestine. Locals love it. Most visitors manage one spoonful.

To take home: tea, dried plums, milk sweets and smoked buffalo (thịt trâu gác bếp).

Reasons to go to Moc Chau

  1. Something is always in bloomPlum and peach in winter, bauhinia in March, mustard and wild sunflowers at the end of the year.
  2. Cool air four hours from HanoiYou need a jacket here on evenings when Hanoi is sweltering.
  3. Easy with childrenFarms to visit, strawberries and plums to pick, short flat walks and wide open space.
  4. It pairs with Mai ChauBoth are on the same road, 65 km apart: a warm valley and a cool plateau in one trip.

Things to do in Moc Chau

  1. Heart-shaped tea hillsĐồi chè trái tim

    The plantations at Tan Lap and Moc Suong, where the rows have been planted in heart shapes. Walk between them early in the day, when the pickers are at work.

  2. Plum valleysNà Ka, Mu Náu

    Thousands of plum trees turn white for about two weeks between late January and mid-February. In May and June the same orchards let you pick fruit for a small fee.

  3. Dai Yem WaterfallThác Dải Yếm

    A 100 m waterfall a few kilometres from town, on an easy path. Strongest from April to September.

  4. Bach Long glass bridgeCầu kính Bạch Long

    A 632 m glass-bottomed walkway, certified by Guinness World Records in 2022 as the longest in the world. Part of it crosses a gorge about 150 m deep. It is a ticketed attraction: check the current price before you go.

  5. Ang village pine forestRừng thông Bản Áng

    A lake ringed by pine trees on the edge of town, with walking paths and, in season, strawberry farms next door.

  6. Visit a dairy farm

    See the black-and-white herds and the milking at one of the visitor farms, and taste the yoghurt at the source.

  7. Ngu Dong Ban On cavesNgũ Động Bản Ôn

    Five caves in the hills beyond the tea fields, reached by a 30–40 minute walk through plum orchards.

  8. Hmong villages of Van HoVân Hồ

    Hua Tat and its neighbours on Highway 6, just before Moc Chau: community homestays, indigo dyeing and beeswax batik workshops.

UNESCO World Heritage, 2025

Yen Tu – Con Son – Kiep Bac

Yên Tử – Côn Sơn – Kiếp Bạc·say “yen tuh, kohn suhn, kyep bahk”

The holy mountain of Vietnamese Zen and the temples of the dynasty that defeated the Mongols: Vietnam's newest World Heritage site.

  • From Hanoi75–120 km1.5–2.5 hours by road
  • Best timeOct–Decfestival season is Feb–Apr
  • Stay1–2 daysor a stop on the way to Ha Long
  • Good forHistorypilgrimage paths, mountain hiking

The facts about Yen Tu

What it is
A chain of pagodas, temples and hermitages across the hills north-east of Hanoi. UNESCO listed it on 12 July 2025 as the Yen Tu – Vinh Nghiem – Con Son, Kiep Bac Complex of Monuments and Landscapes. It is Vietnam's ninth World Heritage site and has twelve component sites.
Where
The sites lie in three places. Yen Tu mountain is in Quang Ninh province, about 120 km from Hanoi and 50 km from Ha Long. Con Son and Kiep Bac are in what is now Hai Phong city (Hai Duong province until 2025), about 75 km from Hanoi. Vinh Nghiem Pagoda is in Bac Ninh province (formerly Bac Giang).
The story
In the 13th century the Tran dynasty beat back three Mongol invasions. King Tran Nhan Tong then gave up the throne, became a monk on Yen Tu and founded Trúc Lâm, the "Bamboo Forest" school of Zen, which is distinctly Vietnamese.
Yen Tu
A 1,068 m mountain with pagodas, stupas and shrines strung along the pilgrims' path to Dong Pagoda, a small bronze temple on the summit.
Con Son and Kiep Bac
Con Son Pagoda was one of the great centres of Truc Lam, and later the home of the scholar and statesman Nguyen Trai. Kiep Bac Temple, 8 km away, honours General Tran Hung Dao, who commanded the victories over the Mongols and is worshipped as a saint.
Getting there
By car, Con Son and Kiep Bac are 1.5–2 hours from Hanoi and Yen Tu 2–2.5 hours. Buses run to Uong Bi for Yen Tu and to Chi Linh for Con Son, with a taxi for the last stretch. Most visitors hire a car with a driver, or stop at Yen Tu on the way to or from Ha Long.
Best time
October to December for dry, clear walking weather. The spring festival season, roughly February to April, is the most atmospheric and by far the most crowded. Summer is hot and humid for the climb.
How long
Yen Tu takes a full day. Con Son and Kiep Bac together take half a day. Seeing all of them comfortably needs two days.

Local specialties of Yen Tu

  • Bánh đậu xanhMung-bean sweets

    Small, dense cubes of mung bean and sugar that melt in the mouth, made in Hai Duong for over a century and always eaten with green tea. The classic gift from the Con Son area.

  • Vải thiều Thanh HàThanh Ha lychees

    Vietnam's most famous lychees come from Thanh Ha, not far from Con Son: small stone, thick sweet flesh, and in season only in June.

  • Cơm chayTemple vegetarian food

    Vegetarian meals served around the pagodas: tofu, mushrooms, sesame-salt rice and wild greens. The natural lunch on a pilgrimage day.

  • Măng trúc Yên TửYen Tu bamboo shoots

    Slender shoots of the small bamboo that covers the mountain: boiled, stir-fried or pickled with chilli, and sold in jars at the foot of the mountain.

  • Rượu mơ Yên TửYen Tu apricot liquor

    Sour mountain apricots, picked in spring, steeped in rice liquor. Also sold as a syrup without alcohol, to mix with water.

  • Bánh gai Ninh GiangBlack sticky-rice cake

    A soft black cake coloured with ramie leaf and filled with mung bean, coconut and lotus seed, wrapped in dried banana leaf.

To take home: boxes of bánh đậu xanh, apricot syrup and jars of pickled bamboo shoots.

Reasons to go to Yen Tu

  1. Vietnam's newest World Heritage siteListed in July 2025 and still almost unknown to foreign visitors.
  2. Seven hundred years of living BuddhismStone steps worn by pilgrims, ancient pines and working monasteries, not a museum.
  3. A turning point in the country's historyThe kings and generals honoured here stopped the Mongol empire three times.
  4. It sits between Hanoi and Ha LongYen Tu is one hour from Ha Long Bay, so it fits into the journey with no detour.

Things to do in Yen Tu

  1. Climb Yen Tu on footNúi Yên Tử

    About 6 km of stone steps from the trailhead at Giai Oan to the summit, and four to five hours up for most people. Hoa Yen Pagoda, at around 530 m, is roughly halfway. Wear proper shoes: the top section is steep rock.

  2. Or take the cable cars

    Two cable-car lines cover most of the climb, leaving 30–40 minutes of steps to the top. Entry to the Yen Tu site is free until the end of 2028. The cable car is extra: about 350,000 VND return for both lines.

  3. Dong PagodaChùa Đồng

    The "Bronze Pagoda" on the 1,068 m summit, cast entirely in bronze. On a clear day the view reaches the coast. More often you are standing in cloud.

  4. Hue Quang stupa garden and the pine pathVườn tháp Huệ Quang, Đường Tùng

    The stone stupa that holds relics of King Tran Nhan Tong, surrounded by the stupas of later monks, and a stairway shaded by red pines said to be 700 years old.

  5. Truc Lam Yen Tu Zen MonasteryThiền viện Trúc Lâm Yên Tử

    A large working monastery near the foot of the mountain, also called Lan Pagoda. Quieter than the main path and open to visitors.

  6. Con Son PagodaChùa Côn Sơn

    A pagoda from the Tran dynasty among pines at the foot of Con Son hill. Climb the 600-odd steps to Ban Co Tien, "the Immortals' Chessboard", and visit the temple to Nguyen Trai beside the stream.

  7. Kiep Bac TempleĐền Kiếp Bạc

    The temple to Tran Hung Dao, in a valley that opens onto the Luc Dau river. Its autumn festival, in the eighth lunar month (around September), draws pilgrims from all over the north.

  8. Vinh Nghiem PagodaChùa Vĩnh Nghiêm

    Across the river in Bac Ninh province: the pagoda where Truc Lam monks were trained. It keeps more than 3,000 carved woodblocks of Buddhist texts, on UNESCO's Memory of the World register for Asia and the Pacific since 2012.

Plan your route

How to put them together

Five routes that work, with honest travel times. All of them start in Hanoi.

5days

The classic first trip

  1. Hanoi
  2. Ninh Binh
  3. Ha Long or Cat Ba
  4. Hanoi

Two nights in Ninh Binh, then a direct bus (about four hours) to the coast for a night on a boat or two on Cat Ba. No overnight travel and no mountain roads.

8–9days

Add the mountains

  1. Hanoi
  2. Sa Pa
  3. Hanoi
  4. Ninh Binh
  5. Ha Long or Cat Ba

Take the night train or a morning bus to Sa Pa for two or three nights of trekking, return to Hanoi, then do the classic trip. The most popular shape for a first visit to the north.

7–8days

The far north by road

  1. Hanoi
  2. Ha Giang Loop
  3. Cao Bang
  4. Ban Gioc
  5. Hanoi

Four days on the Ha Giang Loop, then a long day east from Meo Vac to Cao Bang (about 190 km of mountain road) and two days around Ban Gioc. Best from late September to November.

7–8days

The north-west loop

  1. Hanoi
  2. Mai Chau
  3. Moc Chau
  4. Mu Cang Chai
  5. Sa Pa
  6. Hanoi

A valley, a plateau, the great terraces and the highest mountain. Moc Chau to Mu Cang Chai is the long day, at about 215 km. Time it for mid-September to early October, or for June.

2days

Heritage on the way to the bay

  1. Hanoi
  2. Con Son – Kiep Bac
  3. Yen Tu
  4. Ha Long

Leave Hanoi early for Con Son and Kiep Bac, sleep at the foot of Yen Tu, climb the mountain the next morning and reach Ha Long, an hour away, by evening.

Getting around

Buses and limousine vans

The standard way to travel. "Limousine" means a 9–11 seat van with reclining seats and hotel pickup in Hanoi's Old Quarter. Sleeper buses cover the long mountain routes overnight. Book through your hotel or a booking app a day or two ahead, and earlier for weekends.

Trains

Useful on three lines: Hanoi to Ninh Binh (a little over 2 hours), Hanoi to Lao Cai for Sa Pa (about 8 hours, overnight sleeper) and Hanoi to Hai Phong for Cat Ba (about 2.5 hours). There are no railways to Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Mai Chau or Moc Chau.

Private car with driver

Worth it for two or more people, for Yen Tu and Con Son, and for the north-west loop, where bus connections between the mountain towns are thin. Agree the route, the driver's meals and the overnight costs in advance.

Flying in from the south

Hanoi's Noi Bai airport is about 2 hours 10 minutes from Ho Chi Minh City and 1 hour 20 minutes from Da Nang. For Ha Long and Cat Ba, Hai Phong's Cat Bi airport has direct flights from both cities and is closer to the bay.

Riding a motorbike yourself

  • LicenceA home licence with a motorcycle category plus an International Driving Permit issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention. A car licence does not cover a scooter.
  • Not recognisedPermits issued under the 1949 convention, which is what the USA, Canada and Australia issue. With one of those you are riding unlicensed.
  • Engine sizeUnder the rules in force since 2025, the basic A1 class covers bikes up to 125 cc. Anything larger needs the full motorcycle class.
  • FinesRiding without a valid licence: 2–4 million VND for bikes up to 125 cc and 6–8 million above that. The bike can be impounded.
  • InsuranceTravel insurers refuse claims from unlicensed riders. On mountain roads that is the real risk.
  • The easy waySit behind a local driver. An "easy rider" knows the road, and you get to look at the view.

No licence? Sit on the back.

We don't run tours in the north. In Saigon, Da Nang and Hoi An we do, and on every one of them you ride behind a local guide: helmet on, hands free for the camera, nothing to sign at a rental shop.

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Quick answers

October and November. The rain has stopped, skies are clear and temperatures are mild from the coast to the mountains. March and April come second. June to August is hot and wet, with storms on the coast and landslides in the mountains, and December and January are cold and often grey.

Five days covers Ninh Binh and Ha Long Bay from Hanoi. Eight to ten days lets you add one mountain area, usually Sa Pa or Ha Giang. With two weeks you can do a full loop that takes in the mountains, the delta and the coast.

Choose Sa Pa if you want to walk: village-to-village treks through rice terraces, homestays, and Fansipan by cable car. It is easier to reach, by expressway bus or overnight train, and has more comfortable hotels. Choose Ha Giang if you want a road trip: three or four days of mountain passes with wilder scenery and simpler accommodation. Ha Giang needs five or six days from Hanoi in total.

Only if you ride yourself. You then need a home licence with a motorcycle category plus an International Driving Permit issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention. Permits from the USA, Canada and Australia are not recognised in Vietnam. Most visitors go as a passenger behind a local driver, called an easy rider, which needs no licence at all.

They are the same limestone seascape, and both are inside the World Heritage site. Ha Long has the widest choice of cruises and the famous caves, with more boats on the water. Lan Ha Bay, around Cat Ba island, is quieter, and Cat Ba itself suits independent travellers who want to hike, climb and take inexpensive day boats.

On 1 July 2025 Vietnam merged its 63 provinces and cities into 34. Ha Giang is now part of Tuyen Quang, Mu Cang Chai moved from Yen Bai to Lao Cai, Mai Chau from Hoa Binh to Phu Tho, and Con Son and Kiep Bac from Hai Duong to Hai Phong. The places themselves have not changed, and the old names are still used on tickets, signs and maps.

From December to February, yes. Hanoi and the delta sit between 10 and 20 °C, and the mountains above 1,500 m can drop to freezing at night, with occasional frost or snow around Sa Pa. Budget rooms are rarely heated, so pack warm layers. From May to September the lowlands are hot, above 30 °C, while the mountains stay pleasant.

Ninh Binh is the easiest. Con Son and Kiep Bac, and Yen Tu, also work with an early start, and Ha Long Bay is possible but means about five hours on the road. Mai Chau is better with one night. Sa Pa, Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Mu Cang Chai and Moc Chau all need at least two nights.

Facts were checked on 10 October 2026 against UNESCO, Vietnam's national and provincial tourism authorities and the Vietnamese press. Distances are driving distances from Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi, measured on OpenStreetMap data. Map outline: Natural Earth. Prices, timetables and rules change: confirm before you travel. Spotted something out of date? Tell us.

Vietnam Crazy Tour runs small-group motorbike tours in Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang and Hoi An. We wrote this guide for travellers who are heading north before or after riding with us.

Heading south after the north?

Tell us when you'll be in Saigon, Da Nang or Hoi An. We'll suggest the right ride and sort out the details over chat.

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